A
concrete foundation repair
is potentially one of the most costly fixes a homeowner can be faced with.
This is not a DIY project or one that may be scheduled with respect to convenience.
Rather, if isn’t taken care of right away, a cracked or sunken concrete slab may add to the
headache with
cracked drywall, doors, windows and kitchen cabinets that drag or don’t shut as they should,
and roof problems.
Potential Causes of a Cracked Foundation
The two most frequent causes of a house’s cracked or sunken foundation is dryness or unequal moisture
in the surrounding soil. This is especially common during the scorching summertime when rainfall is
lacking.
It’s a simple task to identify when problems are likely to crop up; the dirt will draw away from
the edge of the foundation. Soil heavy in clay content are particularly susceptible.
Many people find out that that cute tree they planted years ago is now a monster and the spreading
roots are threatening to introduce cracks.
Seismic testing is another culprit that can result in a cracked foundation. This is the result of
geophysical testing for petroleum exploration. These tests “thump” the ground with a mechanical
contraption.
The reflected vibrations paint a picture of the subterranean composition.
The Consequences of Seismic Testing
As might be imagined, the sad result of seismic exploration testing for oil or gas may cause
foundation damage in houses in the area. The initial as well as the reflective thumps can crack a
concrete foundation.
Often, city governments allow these tests without notifying local homeowners.
Legal proceedings can ensure that “big oil” compensate homeowners for the residential foundation
damage that they cause, but like gambling, it’s worth it to them if they hit pay dirt.
How to Avoid a Repair Job
Avoiding an expensive pier or piling repair (due to dry conditions) is just a matter of taking a
preventive and proactive approach. As stated above, during long absent rain times, the dirt shrinks
and pulls away from the foundation.
Keep an eye on it and when the dirt pulls about 1 1/2” away from the concrete, link together
sufficient soaker hoses to reach around the perimeter of the home. Cap one end and screw the opposite
end accessible to a garden hose.
Place the soaker hoses in the gap between the concrete and the dirt. It might be necessary to
temporarily keep it in place by weighing it down with bricks or other objects. New soaker hoses are
notorious for wanting to coil back up. Don’t worry, after a few watering sessions, it will behave.
Watering a Concrete Slab
As soon as the soaker hose is in place and the garden hose is linked up to it, just turn on the water.
The hoses will bubble water out evenly around the home perimeter. Soon, the soil that supports the
slab will become saturated, it will support the house evenly and properly.
Situations and soil composition vary, but generally speaking, a half hour a few days a week is all
that’s required to keep the slab and surrounding soil stable.
