Asphalt is also called blacktop. Another term, tarmac, is often used interchangeably, but to be
precise, it’s not the same composition.
Blacktop driveways are not
concrete driveways. The same
is true of sidewalks and parking lots.
Because this is so, they react to the elements in different ways. Eventually it becomes necessary for a
asphalt repair job.
The Nature of Blacktop Surfaces
This is basically a petroleum product. More precisely, it’s a combination of small rock chips, sand,
and a kind of asphalt cement. It responds to changes in temperature. It becomes softer in warm weather
and becomes harder as the weather cools.
In lockstep with typical physical materials, it will expand and contract with temperature variations.
Most repairs can be carried out by the homeowner. But for anyone that doesn’t want to
perform
the actual labor, I highly recommend Angie’s List; its the
premier place to find a blacktop contractor or handyman based on feedback of other homeowners in
your area.
This makes much more sense than going to the yellow pages, closing your eyes, and pointing.
Types of Blacktop Damage
Asphalt is very sensitive to salt damage (just like concrete that is less than about two years old).
Because of this fact, it’s a better move to toss out sand or another non-chemical product for traction
safety when ice is on the surface.
Most frequently, there are 2 types of blacktop damage that may occur. First, and and most likely,
is surface cracking. This is a normal aspect of the product and there’s really nothing on the market
that I’ve seen that is reliable at preventing it. That said, a sealer will help.
Beware of Expansion and Contraction
Expansion and contraction is usually the culprit, and if it’s allowed to go unchecked, it’ll
only get worse. Damage in the form of water that fills the crack and ices up in the winter really
compounds this problem.
The second type of damage is sunken spots and holes. What will cause this? Usually, it’s when
the builder did a poor job laying the base (foundation) before putting in the parking lot or driveway.
This can cause the support to be sub-standard. When the base is laid properly, it will be 8” to
10” of crushed, well-compacted gravel installed over compacted soil.
How to Repair Asphalt Cracks
Almost everybody has seen municipal road crews fulfilling the new mayor’s campaign promise by
patching cracks in asphalt roads. They walk along ladling out heated black goo. There’s an even easier
cold patch method for the homeowner. One of the most available products is Quikrete’s Blacktop
Repair (see the photo at the top of this article).
There are other high-quality elastomeric asphalt crack fillers out there. Check the manufacturer’s
recommendations. Some will allow adding sand to very deep cracks.
How to Repair Blacktop Holes
Repairing blacktop surface holes is a bit more difficult than simple cracks. As the first step, all
the sunken, broken-up asphalt needs to be excavated. The perimeter edges of the excavation need to
be vertical rather than slanted. The edge surfaces function as a
retaining wall
for the new fill.
How deep does the hole go? If it’s deeper than 2”, finely break up the excavated asphalt
material to bring it up to 1.5” to 2” in depth. Then use it as a filler.
Conversely, you can use small gravel to raise the depth up to a 1.5” to 2” in depth. Note
though, only use sharp edged gravel, never rounded pea gravel.
Finish the Job
Next, tamp down the base solidly. Any instrument that is blunt and wide may be used for this part of
the job, even a wooden 4” X 4”. Now, fill the hole with the blacktop patching material. Build
it up in a convex formation.
It should be about a 1/4” higher than the plane of the driveway surface
surrounding it.
Finally, butch up and use a steel tamp and a small sledge hammer to compact the patch material,
forcing it into the base.
Using a Driveway Sealer
There’s no doubt about it, an asphalt driveway needs be sealed for protection. But don’t
jump the gun. Do not apply a sealer to a new surface or a patch for a minimum of 30 days. The material needs
open-air curing as the hydrocarbons evaporate.
Expansion and contraction is usually the culprit, and if it’s allowed to go unchecked, it’ll
only get worse. Damage in the form of water that fills the crack and ices up in the winter really
compounds this problem.
